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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.