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Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in enormous golden pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Children relax in a stone basin imitating mermaids, and adjacent resides a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, beside a towering pile of mattresses. It embodies the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), a leading nineteenth-century's most beloved authors. I find myself in this Danish town, situated in the island of Fyn in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to investigate Andersen’s lasting influence in his birthplace 150 years after his death, and to discover a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the local exhibition space celebrating the writer, featuring his childhood house. A curator notes that in previous versions of the museum there was scant attention on his fairytales. His personal history was explored, but The Little Mermaid were absent. For tourists who visit Odense seeking storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a major road, created the chance to reimagine how the renowned native could be commemorated. An international design contest awarded Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the contract, with the museum's fresh perspective at the center of the structure. The remarkable wooden museum with connected spiralling spaces opened to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we talk like Andersen: with wit, sarcasm and viewpoint,” says the curator. The landscape design take this approach: “It’s a garden for explorers and for large beings, it’s designed to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he says, a challenge accomplished by clever planting, playing with verticality, size and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Author's Influence

The author penned two and a half personal accounts and often contradicted himself. The museum adopts this philosophy to heart; often the opinions of his companions or excerpts of written messages are displayed to gently question the writer's personal account of events. “Andersen is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” explains the curator. The effect is a compelling swift exploration of his personal story and work, thought processes and favorite tales. This is stimulating and whimsical, for adults and kids, with a additional underground fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the children.

Exploring Odense

In the actual city, the compact town of this Danish city is delightful, with stone-paved roads and old wooden houses painted in bright colours. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the traffic lights feature the author with his distinctive top hat, brass footprints give a free pedestrian route, and there’s a art walk too. Every August this commitment reaches its height with the annual Andersen celebration, which celebrates the his influence through visual arts, dance, theatre and melodies.

This year, the multi-day festival had numerous performances, most of which were free. As I explore this place, I come across painted stilt-walkers, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I hear empowering poetry and observe an amazing evening show with athletic artists lowering from the municipal structure and dangling from a construction equipment. Future activities during the season are talks, family art workshops and, broadening the storytelling legacy beyond Andersen, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.

All good magical places require a fortress, and the island boasts over a hundred manors and manor houses around the area

Pedaling Through History

Like most of Denmark, bicycles are the ideal method to travel around in this town and a “bicycle route” winds through the downtown area. From the local hotel, I pedal to the free waterside bathing area, then out of town for a loop around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the primary land. City residents have outdoor meals here after work, or appreciate a quiet hour angling, paddleboarding or swimming.

Returning to the city, I eat at the themed restaurant, where the culinary offerings is inspired by the writer's motifs and stories. The poem the national ode is featured during my meal, and manager the host shares excerpts, translated into English, as he presents each course. It’s an experience commonplace in my visit, the local residents appreciate narratives and it feels as though storytelling is always available here.

Historic Estate Tours

All good fairytale destinations need a palace, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes around the area. Taking day trips from Odense, I explore Egeskov Castle, the continent's most intact moated palace. Although large sections are available for tours, Egeskov is also the family home of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the royal resident. I contemplate if she would notice a pea through a stack of {mattresses